The glacial river Jokuldalsa has been tamed by Karahnjukar dam but is still pretty scary as it flows along deep canyon for a long stretch of Jokuldalur valley.
O f all the people traveling around Iceland on the Ring Road almost no one ever decides to take a break by far the longest inhabited valley in Iceland, the Jokuldalur valley in the East.
Which is a massive shame but understandable since there is little information to be had online about this rather wonderful place. The East of Iceland is often overlooked in travel brochures and this place as well.
The last ten years or so, this has changed, after pretty famous but mostly retarded Hollywood star in our opinion, made an advertisment kayaking through stunning rows of high basalt rock columns found in a valley a little off the Jokuldalur valley. That place is now, a few years later, the biggest natural attraction in the whole of the East of Iceland.
However, the long valley before you ever get to the sight de jour, is well worth a stop or five.
The reason is that although the roughly 80 kilometer long valley is very beautiful there is nothing absolutely unique or downright stunning to see while from the road while driving. Most you’ll see on the way through are various farms and apart from the often scary river raging down the valley and the instant and sudden stunning view over the entire valley coming down this way from either side.
But you know how sometimes something is both fascinating, enjoyable and wonderful but you cannot exactly put your finger on what makes it so? That is the case with this fascinating valley.
Contrary to belief there is quite a lot to see and do here. This is just a fabulous place to trek around and feeling alone in the world but still be close to people and services if needed.
Walking or riding by the Jokuldal river, known as Jokla, on a clear summer day is a unique experience and at the mouth of the river you´ll oftentimes find seals at play. Fishing here is possible too although a bit expensive for the average Joe and Joan.
A number of abandoned farms are found here giving way to old and tall tales of ghosts and cruel people. Indeed, this is where one of the fascinating sagas of Iceland, Hrafnkells saga Freysgoda, takes place.
Oftentimes one finds a group of wild reindeer grazing in the Jokuldalur valley without a care in the world. PIC Jason Paris
Jokuldalur, being so close to the highland, also means this is probably one of the greatest spots in Iceland for seeing reindeer grazing. Once in awhile they do come down into the valley where the grass is greener but in most cases you would need to trek some distance to get close. It is thus no coincidence you´ll find here at Skjoldolfsstadir a center partly dedicated to reindeers although nowadays that place has been renovated quite a bit and is now known as Hotel Studlagil. It is more basic than the foreign policy of the United States but they do make up for it with a seriously welcoming family of owners. We do recommend it but bear in mind your computer or phone might not get the best connections and at times none at all.
Available all along Jokuldalur valley are farm accommodations in a number of places and should you have your own tent it would not be a problem to just place it anywhere you want as long as you seek permission. The only official campsite is outside of Hotel Studlagil but we doubt many farmers around would deny curious visitors the chance to pitch a tent in a nice clearing if asked.
A great small country hotel known as Svartiskogur in the local language is found here, Black Forest hotel for foreigners, a wee bit North of Jokuldalur. Driving time there from Egilsstadir town is only 30 minutes or so.
» This is the place to find the irresistible Icelandic reindeer imported here from Sweden decades ago
» Just follow the Ring Road either way and you´ll get here
» We are constantly amazed how few make an effort to spend time here. Trekking opportunities are endless and the scenery quite stunning
Summer 2022 team Total Iceland will be offering a unique travel package taking in the highs and lows of Jokuldalur as well as a host of other fantastically interesting places few know about. Contact us for further details: totaliceland[at]totaliceland.com
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